Insider’s Guide: Palm Springs
Old Hollywood elegance and modern savoir faire collide in California’s beloved desert getawayNestled at the base of the majestic San Jacinto Mountains, Palm Springs has long beckoned travelers seeking a dose of glamour and decadence amid the stark beauty of the desert. Over the decades, it has catered to health enthusiasts pursuing the salubrious benefits of spa resorts and hot springs, Old Hollywood entertainers looking for an escape from nearby Los Angeles, and outdoor enthusiasts who want to take advantage of nature’s breathtaking grandeur. Recently, an influx of young adventure-seekers and urbanites have moved in and revived the city, injecting fresh energy into the stable of tourist mainstays. Below, a survey of some of the must-see places, from old stalwarts to recent openings.
STAY
Casa Cody
The Cody family helped settle Palm Springs, and their humble inn, Casa Cody, is the longest continuously operating hotel in the area. Carolyn Schneider, of the development group Casetta, specializes in boutique properties and recently updated the historic site with an eye for honoring its history while bringing it into the present day. Situated on more than an acre and a half of land, Casa Cody’s makeover imbues the old stopover with a soulful, enchanting spirit. Rendered in a mix of Spanish Colonial Revival and Mediterranean styles, the hotel has 30 rooms and four standalone cottages set among two large courtyards, each with its own pool. Dazzling bougainvillea bushes cover the property, and porticoed atriums invite guests to sit on rocking chairs and enjoy Palm Springs’s never-ending dusk. Rooms have a rustic warmth—leather couches, in-room fireplaces, and glazed tiles give everything a cozy, lived-in feel.
Korakia Pensione
If your heart wants something exotic and mysterious, consider the Korakia Pensione, which brings the allure of the East to the arid Californian landscape. Separated into two villas—named the Moroccan and the Mediterranean—the pensione-style hotel is set amid lush, landscaped gardens—evoking the spirit of North Africa. Design flourishes (think keyhole archways, Moorish wooden doors decorated with intricate carvings, fountains and stone paths that lead to various nooks and crannies) all nod to the airy and dreamy Mediterranean and Middle East, conjuring the sensuous retreat that Yves Saint Laurent built for himself in Morocco. At night, candles are set out to give the property a seductive glow.
Eat
Melvyn’s
Few places call to mind Palm Springs’s heyday quite like Melvyn’s. Located on the property of the lovely Ingleside Inn, this storied restaurant is a throwback to the glamour of the Golden Age of Hollywood when Bob Hope, Lucille Ball, Frank Sinatra, and Jerry Lee Lewis were all regulars. The restaurant easily conjures that era with its live piano tunes playing softly across the chandelier-lit dining room. On a charming, enclosed patio nearby, twinkling lights mingle with foliage on the ceiling. Snack on old favorites like steak tartare, shrimp cocktail, or a wedge salad to start. While all the entrées are certainly decadent and delicious, the steaks are where the restaurant really shines (add truffles or a blue cheese crust to amp things up). By the end of the evening, you’ll float outside like a member of the Rat Pack, who were known to make regular appearances.
Bar Cecil
A new hot spot favored by the in-crowd, Bar Cecil is helmed by Chef Gabriel Woo, a local who’s made a splash at popular nearby destinations Holiday House and Sparrows Lodge. Named after the noted British photographer Cecil Beaton (who once fittingly said, “Perhaps the world’s second-worst crime is boredom; the first is being a bore”) the bar is all about celebrating eye-catching beauty. There’s the striking green wallpaper, plush tufted bar seats, abstract art that recalls Kandinsky or Mondrian, and the perfectly staged shelves behind the bar. The menu is classic bistro fare; Woo brings in local produce to show off the Golden State’s rich agricultural bounty. The bone-in pork chop and the hamburger (with the bar’s logo seared into the bun) are decadent choices, whereas the deviled eggs and bibb lettuce salad are fresher, lighter options. The bar menu is tight but well-edited and is especially strong on throwback cocktails like the espresso martini and the refreshing spritz.
DO
Golf at La Quinta Resort & Club
Not one but five courses set at the base of the glorious, craggy desert mountains make this one of the most beloved putting greens in Southern California, if not the entire country. With 109 holes spread out over 2,000 acres, and amenities offered via three clubhouses (including plenty of first-rate dining options), you can see why both golf enthusiasts and professionals flock to these putting greens. It’s no wonder that these courses consistently land top spots on “Best Of” rankings.
Palm Springs Art Museum
Because Palm Springs has long been a magnet to creatives who march to the beat of their own drum, it should come as no surprise that the city’s art museum has an exciting, vibrant imprint. The permanent collection focuses on contemporary art, leaning toward Californian artists, plus excellent contributions from local Mexican and Indigenous artists and communities. Highlights include work from Alexander Calder, Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor, Agnes Pelton, and Ed Ruscha (there’s also a Picasso). A theater downstairs hosts lectures and music performances, including an ongoing jazz night, and outside there’s a small but engaging sculpture garden.
Shop
The Shops at 1345
A collective of independent boutiques housed under one roof, this treasure trove offers something for any and every palette. Pottery, textiles, vintage furniture, art, clothing, and accessories—you name it—all in a mid-century modern building that will have architecture devotees enamored. Past the festive pink brick front, you’ll find a labyrinth of shop-in-shops, sometimes so seamlessly merged that you can’t tell where one ends and the other starts. While the merchandise is varied, it all offers a certain easygoing, retro vibe that pairs perfectly with the sun-dappled lifestyle that Palm Springs is intent on selling.
The Frippery
Throughout the 20th century, Palm Springs attracted movie stars and design enthusiasts from nearby Los Angeles. As such, there’s an undeniable patina of glitter and glamour baked into the dusty region. The best place to find hints of that long-ago style and eccentricity is at The Frippery, which specializes in vintage clothing. Expect warm-weather goodies that err on the side of exuberant and theatrical, with plenty of boldly printed caftans, sequins, lamé, oversize sunglasses, and much more. From the mod ’60s to the groovy ’70s to the decadent ’80s, there’s something for every mood. Fashion hounds would do well to keep their eyes peeled for museum-worthy pieces from big-name designers and lesser-known talents.
STAY
Casa Cody
The Cody family helped settle Palm Springs, and their humble inn, Casa Cody, is the longest continuously operating hotel in the area. Carolyn Schneider, of the development group Casetta, specializes in boutique properties and recently updated the historic site with an eye for honoring its history while bringing it into the present day. Situated on more than an acre and a half of land, Casa Cody’s makeover imbues the old stopover with a soulful, enchanting spirit. Rendered in a mix of Spanish Colonial Revival and Mediterranean styles, the hotel has 30 rooms and four standalone cottages set among two large courtyards, each with its own pool. Dazzling bougainvillea bushes cover the property, and porticoed atriums invite guests to sit on rocking chairs and enjoy Palm Springs’s never-ending dusk. Rooms have a rustic warmth—leather couches, in-room fireplaces, and glazed tiles give everything a cozy, lived-in feel.
Korakia Pensione
If your heart wants something exotic and mysterious, consider the Korakia Pensione, which brings the allure of the East to the arid Californian landscape. Separated into two villas—named the Moroccan and the Mediterranean—the pensione-style hotel is set amid lush, landscaped gardens—evoking the spirit of North Africa. Design flourishes (think keyhole archways, Moorish wooden doors decorated with intricate carvings, fountains and stone paths that lead to various nooks and crannies) all nod to the airy and dreamy Mediterranean and Middle East, conjuring the sensuous retreat that Yves Saint Laurent built for himself in Morocco. At night, candles are set out to give the property a seductive glow.
Eat
Melvyn’s
Few places call to mind Palm Springs’s heyday quite like Melvyn’s. Located on the property of the lovely Ingleside Inn, this storied restaurant is a throwback to the glamour of the Golden Age of Hollywood when Bob Hope, Lucille Ball, Frank Sinatra, and Jerry Lee Lewis were all regulars. The restaurant easily conjures that era with its live piano tunes playing softly across the chandelier-lit dining room. On a charming, enclosed patio nearby, twinkling lights mingle with foliage on the ceiling. Snack on old favorites like steak tartare, shrimp cocktail, or a wedge salad to start. While all the entrées are certainly decadent and delicious, the steaks are where the restaurant really shines (add truffles or a blue cheese crust to amp things up). By the end of the evening, you’ll float outside like a member of the Rat Pack, who were known to make regular appearances.
Bar Cecil
A new hot spot favored by the in-crowd, Bar Cecil is helmed by Chef Gabriel Woo, a local who’s made a splash at popular nearby destinations Holiday House and Sparrows Lodge. Named after the noted British photographer Cecil Beaton (who once fittingly said, “Perhaps the world’s second-worst crime is boredom; the first is being a bore”) the bar is all about celebrating eye-catching beauty. There’s the striking green wallpaper, plush tufted bar seats, abstract art that recalls Kandinsky or Mondrian, and the perfectly staged shelves behind the bar. The menu is classic bistro fare; Woo brings in local produce to show off the Golden State’s rich agricultural bounty. The bone-in pork chop and the hamburger (with the bar’s logo seared into the bun) are decadent choices, whereas the deviled eggs and bibb lettuce salad are fresher, lighter options. The bar menu is tight but well-edited and is especially strong on throwback cocktails like the espresso martini and the refreshing spritz.
DO
Golf at La Quinta Resort & Club
Not one but five courses set at the base of the glorious, craggy desert mountains make this one of the most beloved putting greens in Southern California, if not the entire country. With 109 holes spread out over 2,000 acres, and amenities offered via three clubhouses (including plenty of first-rate dining options), you can see why both golf enthusiasts and professionals flock to these putting greens. It’s no wonder that these courses consistently land top spots on “Best Of” rankings.
Palm Springs Art Museum
Because Palm Springs has long been a magnet to creatives who march to the beat of their own drum, it should come as no surprise that the city’s art museum has an exciting, vibrant imprint. The permanent collection focuses on contemporary art, leaning toward Californian artists, plus excellent contributions from local Mexican and Indigenous artists and communities. Highlights include work from Alexander Calder, Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor, Agnes Pelton, and Ed Ruscha (there’s also a Picasso). A theater downstairs hosts lectures and music performances, including an ongoing jazz night, and outside there’s a small but engaging sculpture garden.
Shop
The Shops at 1345
A collective of independent boutiques housed under one roof, this treasure trove offers something for any and every palette. Pottery, textiles, vintage furniture, art, clothing, and accessories—you name it—all in a mid-century modern building that will have architecture devotees enamored. Past the festive pink brick front, you’ll find a labyrinth of shop-in-shops, sometimes so seamlessly merged that you can’t tell where one ends and the other starts. While the merchandise is varied, it all offers a certain easygoing, retro vibe that pairs perfectly with the sun-dappled lifestyle that Palm Springs is intent on selling.
The Frippery
Throughout the 20th century, Palm Springs attracted movie stars and design enthusiasts from nearby Los Angeles. As such, there’s an undeniable patina of glitter and glamour baked into the dusty region. The best place to find hints of that long-ago style and eccentricity is at The Frippery, which specializes in vintage clothing. Expect warm-weather goodies that err on the side of exuberant and theatrical, with plenty of boldly printed caftans, sequins, lamé, oversize sunglasses, and much more. From the mod ’60s to the groovy ’70s to the decadent ’80s, there’s something for every mood. Fashion hounds would do well to keep their eyes peeled for museum-worthy pieces from big-name designers and lesser-known talents.
- Courtesy of Casa Cody
- Courtesy of Korakia Pensione
- Courtesy of Melvyn’s
- Courtesy of Bar Cecil
- Courtesy of Golf at La Quinta Resort & Club
- Courtesy of Palm Springs Art Museum
- Courtesy of The Shops at 1345
- Courtesy of The Frippery
