The Ralph bag’s curved lines, unique materials, and precise craftsmanship all take inspiration from one of the designer’s most enduring passions.
By Shannon Adducci
Imagine a sleek curve, soft and fluid yet still sharp and polished, something begging to run your fingers over and around. A series of straightaways and curves speeds up and then downshifts, a delineating track guiding the way. Up top, a circular form finds its own tactile expression, with textured and knotted wood punctuated by thin lines of metal, cool to the touch, confident in its authority.
All of the above may apply to the automotive realm. But it’s also a roadmap for the Ralph bag, a recent addition to the Ralph Lauren Collection handbag family that takes direct inspiration from Ralph’s love of rare cars.“I’ve always been inspired by the timeless spirit of automotive design,” says Ralph. “There is a beauty in the way they were crafted with details that were purposeful. The Ralph bag pays homage to that process with a character that celebrates form and function and a commitment to quality.”
“I’ve always been inspired by the timeless spirit of automotive design.”
“I’ve always been inspired by the timeless spirit of automotive design.”
Just like the vintage marks that make up Ralph’s personal collection, the Ralph bag places an emphasis on form that follows function (a phrase that American architect Louis Sullivan coined in his 1896 essay). The maxim still rings true, perhaps intuitively in handbags, where utility must take the wheel of even the most elaborate, embellished and luxurious of handheld accessories.The Ralph bag does exactly that—and quite literally: Its two wood handles are meant to resemble a vintage steering wheel. Each piece of the handle is handcrafted from the burled root of the Thuja tree, a coniferous evergreen, and punctuated with lines of steel that hold it together and help create the curvature effect of a steering wheel. The entire process of constructing the wood-and-steel handles takes three days, and the natural marbleization and characteristics of the burl wood means that no two handles will look alike.
Handbags can carry a feeling of power, and the Ralph bag has its own way of conveying a decisive sense of authority through its shape and construction. Consider Margaret Thatcher’s “iron accessory,” the boxy, structural handbags that the UK prime minister used to carry to negotiations with world leaders, a sort of power prop that led to “handbagging,” the Oxford dictionary–approved term to explain a forthright manner. The Ralph bag’s own strength lies in the marriage of all its curved lines, from the aforementioned wood handles to the 51 pieces of leather and lining that artisans assemble to create the finished piece.
The Ralph bag’s own strength lies in the marriage of all its curved lines, from the aforementioned wood handles to the 51 pieces of leather and lining that artisans assemble to create the finished piece.
Using saddle calfskin that is known for its ability to improve with wear, small batches are hand-selected and inspected before a team of artisans uses a series of cutting techniques to create a blueprint of the bag. Next, they split, glue, and skive the various components and apply edge paint to ensure the same color perfectly covers each boundary (this can take up to five rounds to achieve). Finally, the pieces are hand-stitched together, and the handbag’s form takes its final shape.Inside, the bag is lined with a sumptuous suede, with a foil-printed bottom that reads “Ralph Lauren Made in Italy” upon closer inspection. A canvas zip pouch with two exterior slip pockets is roomy and adds a sense of organization for the spacious tote-style Ralph bag.
A saddlery-inspired belt is attached to the front of the bag, a detail that echoes the finishing touch that Ralph has added to his runway looks since the very first Ralph Lauren Collection show in 1973. It’s joined by a calfskin key bell that is embellished with an engraved metal plate that reads “Ralph Lauren,” a telling accoutrement that, naturally, resembles a sports car’s key fob.
SHANNON ADDUCCI is a writer and fashion editor based in New York. Her work has appeared in Elle, GQ, Departures, Robb Report, WWD, and T: The New York Times Style Magazine.
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