The authentic and timeless world of Ralph Lauren
June 2025
RL/Women

TWINKLE TOES

Spring is tiptoeing toward a new footwear silhouette that combines the best of two worlds
By Shannon Adducci
A funny thing started to happen with shoes recently. Heels, a perennial symbol of glamour, long a requisite for a woman’s wardrobe, began to disappear. Not entirely, as there will always be moments and circumstances that call for a well-dressed heel (especially and perhaps only when its wearer knows how to walk in them with confidence and a spirited gait). But little by little (centimeter by centimeter, really), the traditional high heel has withered down to its current, less formidable progeny, the kitten heel. Curiously, the sneaker met a similar fate. Once worn with everything from suits to dresses, the so-called fashion sneaker suddenly looked a bit uncool—too clunky, too cartoon-like, not harmonious with the aforementioned garments and other more sophisticated styling pursuits.
Cut to the current obsession with the ballet flat, and one can see the evolution of women’s shoes as a narrowing from two extremes (one sharp, high, and painful—the other chunky and unwieldy) to something more streamlined, practical, and down-to-earth. But the ballet flat has its own disadvantages: not enough support, chafing in hard-to-predict spots, and a general lack of protection from the ground they walk on (particularly if that terra firma is the grimy streets of New York City). Which is why the Polo Pony Ballerina Sneaker just might be a game changer in footwear. It’s sporty but elegant. Lightweight but substantial where it counts. The sacchetto construction of the trainer’s upper gives an unmatched softness, wrapping the foot like a second skin in a soft, deconstructed lining (so does its cinched-elastic collar). It could never be mistaken for a high heel, but the clever placement of the split-sole rubber outsoles provides just the hint of a platform so as not to be entirely vulnerable to the ground.
The sneaker’s split-sole construction is not a new concept but rarely is it seen outside the world of dance. The design derives from the jazz shoe, which peaked in popularity in the mid-20th century as the dance form made its way out of clubs and into dance studios and performance stages. A soft oxford-style upper was often combined with the split-sole construction, placing one piece under the ball of the foot and another on the calcaneus (the bottom of the heel). The result allowed dancers to move more freely and to fully point their toes. Polo’s design team looked to these vintage dance shoes, along with tae kwon do footwear, for inspiration, finding that the split sole was the key to creating a low-profile sneaker that would channel the spirit of a ballet flat and still be comfortable and sturdy enough for everyday life.
The Suede Pony Ballerina Sneaker
$228.00
The Suede Pony Ballerina Sneaker
$228.00
The Suede Pony Ballerina Sneaker
$228.00
The Suede Pony Ballerina Sneaker
$228.00
Once they locked in the split-sole construction, the shoe was finished with details that balance poise and practicality. A lightweight EVA midsole adds a cloud-like cushioning, a durable rubber outsole channels court sneakers with a traditional herringbone tread, and a T-toe design gives vintage track shoe appeal. Three styles show how versatile the shoe can be. A suede option is the most classic, channeling an oxford that’s suitable for office days and weekends alike. A mesh version acts like a sandal with an open-weave upper. But it’s the High-Top Pony Ballerina Sneaker, with a boxing-inspired upper and color-blocked accents, that suggests what the new silhouette is truly capable of: a shoe revolution.
SHANNON ADDUCCI is a writer and fashion editor based in New York. Her work has appeared in Elle, GQ, Departures, Robb Report, WWD and T: The New York Times Style Magazine.
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